Pacific Grove Golf Links has famously distinct nines. The front, built by H. Chandler Egan in 1932, traces a narrow figure eight through the cypress forest above Lovers Point; the back, added by Jack Neville in 1960, plunges into the dunes below the Point Pinos Lighthouse. The Neville nine gets all the attention. Its ocean views, rumpled fairways, and expanses of brambly sand are the main selling points of the course. The Egan nine, however, has its own aesthetic and strategic virtues, which not everyone appreciates the first time through. Vacationing golfers are sometimes disappointed to find themselves playing two-and-a-half hours of parkland golf before getting to the holes they saw on Google Images. Of course, the back nine is far superior; with its setting, it could hardly avoid being so. But the full eighteen has the narrative coherence of a great walk, one that starts peacefully in the forest and ends with a blast of the sublime by the sea.